Thursday, December 16, 2010

Gone, Baby Gone

No, we did not find my flying board.
Someone else got to Big Mama Wave first.
So now I'm in the market for something new.
Either an exact (or semi-exact) replacement or an upgrade.
It doesn't look like Costco is currently manufacturing this beauty - a 6'9" foam board called a Wavestorm - so I can buy one used on Craigs List or inherit/buy one from a friend or acquaintance.

I also just got a posting from the 310 Surf Chicks about getting this cute girly board used for $200. It's called a Surf Betty. Isn't she...feminine? I'm just not sure I want to graduate from foam to fiberglass yet. The difference? Balance, weight and the pain/injury factor if I hit myself in the head with it.

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Lost My Board?

There's really more to say today than can be crammed into one measly blog, so I'll give you some bullet points. But first... Look at that rad picture a nice lady named Nisa took of me on the beach last night. Sweet.

Now for the bullet points:

1) Was gonna buy myself a waterproof watch for Christmas. Then discovered that my favorite watch ever - a red-faced Swiss Army Victorinox from the Sundance Catalog - is waterproof. Presto! Surfing Watch achieved!

2) Got booties: My BFF M.M. bought these superb round toe Infiniti bamboo fiber booties for me as a birthday gift. It took many trips to get them, but get them I finally did.

3) Took the booties for a spin at sunset last night. Made me realize how much I tolerate being uncomfortable and then wondered where else in my life am I doing the equivalent of surfing in bitterly cold water without my booties?

4) Went out again just before sunset tonight and it was ecstasy, booties and all. Caught the best ride of my surfing life so far. Not feeling cold may make a huge difference.

5) The water was silver blue glass under the setting sun and the waves were 0-1 feet. That means small - really small. But perfect for me.

6) In my post-surfing ecstatic bliss,  I watched the final light of dusk before driving home.

7) Without strapping my board to my car.

8) And heard it fly off the roof as I rode home on the 10 Freeway.

9) Yep. Lost my board.

10) Um huh. Brian's on his way right now to check if it's still there. Stay tuned...

Friday, December 10, 2010

White Out

Driving to the beach this morning, I didn't think too much of the fog that was rolling in. There's often more fog as you go west from Culver City. Arriving at the beach, I still wasn't concerned.

Walking down the hill from my car, I felt the familiar strengthening feeling I get when my legs are doing what I'm telling them to do - not what they want to do, not what they're used to doing. Going surfing is still not routine. Especially lately, with the colds, and the cold, I'm making myself go when it would be a lot cozier to stay under the blankets. And the results have been so mixed, I don't exactly jump out of bed to hit the 55 degree water.

So I walked - only to find myself enveloped in the thickest fog I've ever experienced in my life. Since I haven't yet worked up a system whereby I bring a camera to the beach while I hit the waves, you'll have to take my word for it. This was a white out. I could see the water rolling up onto the sand, a few yards beyond that and then...nothing. Or nearly nothing.

After watching a fellow surfer run straight in, I saw three other guys out there. Through the haze, I could even see them go for some waves. But I could hardly see the waves. I hesitated. I hate backing off from things because I'm scared, but honestly, the lack of visibility scared me.  What if something happened? I could quietly sink into oblivion when help might have been feet away.  Never mind the pummeling I would undoubtedly take by waves I never saw coming.

It took me a while to distinguish between prudence and terror.  Sure, Eddie would have gone - those four guys went. But then I realized that in addition to my fears, real and imagined, was actual inexperience.   Without anyone to egg me on, without anyone to coach me, or even without anyone to brave the unknown alongside me - I turned around.

It put me in one hell of a bad mood to have walked away from what otherwise might have been perfectly good waves, but I have PMS and had just gotten a parking ticket, so I might have been in a bad mood anyway. And there's always another wave. Or so they say.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Surfing the Chakras

Today was one of those days when everything seemed to be going not-my-way: when it looked like I was trapped by circumstances.  Today was one of those days when all I could see was that I'm
home-schooling a seven year old, day-caring a two year old, not making enough money and feeling the creativity and life drained out of me minute-by-minute while A.X. refused to nap. Today was one of those days when I really needed to do some yoga.

Fortunately, nap was achieved and I got on the mat. What I did was a twenty-minute Chakra Balancing Yoga class I downloaded from . (, by the way, has changed my yoga practice and, I do not lie, my life.  I HIGHLY recommend it for anyone who can't get out of the house to do yoga.)

What did I get from today's practice?

Firstly, Chakra Balancing is a great thing to do when you're stressed. Secondly,  my Red, Yellow, Purple and White Chakras seem to be going strong, but my Orange, Green and Blue Chakras? Not so much. In short, while I'm expressing a strong will and being intuitively plugged in, I'm feeling sensually/creatively deprived and my heart's not very open. A pretty accurate diagnosis.

Time to start remembering I am more than my circumstances. And opening my heart.

Lots of pictures and more about chakras  here.

Saturday, December 4, 2010

Back in the water?

Not quite yet, but I should be getting there as soon as this afternoon or tomorrow morning. After I drop by Rider Shack to get those booties. But even before booties - an update on how the past month has slipped away with no surfing, lots and lots of prayer, and even more love.

On November 12, while enduring my semi-regular bout of early winter-ish bronchitis, I turned 41. 

For Thanksgiving week, we traveled to Seattle to visit my Mom and briefly considered buying the foreclosure next door. The pluses - low cost of living, lots of green, lots of espresso and lots of museums where Brian could work. The minuses -  no surfing (at least nearby), very little sunshine and no community.

Also, my Mom's in the midst of applying for a job that would relocate her to San Diego. So pray she gets it - not only would we be somewhat reunited, but there would be lots of opportunities to surf San Diego County.

Now we're back, my health is better and the water temperature is almost ten degrees lower than it was in October. Which leads me back to those booties...

And one more thing. I've missed the water.

In the past, I would have called it quits after failing to fulfill my dream of regularly surfing for this long. But I'm not giving up. It's that simple.