|Ashton naturally knows how to have fun. With me it takes more practice.|
I didn't go surfing during the week either - the kids got sick and I got sick.
At the same time, I've fallen off the wagon of a regular almost-daily yoga practice that had been going strong for three years.
The combination of a lack of fun times in the water and a lack of peaceful times in my head has left me angry, sad, judgmental - and without a proper sense of perspective. Everything seems like a dire emergency.
I started surfing partially because I wanted to create a new circuit in my brain that says: "I need to have some fun. I want to surf. Where's my board?"
This would replace that old worn-out circuit in my brain that says "I'm a worthless piece of crap.I don't want to do anything. What's the point?"
I want to surf. I need to have some fun. Where's my board?