Sunday, February 6, 2011
Coffee. Croissants. Waves.
Lately I'd been having the problem of being too "in my head" while surfing. For surfing, as for any sport, this is a kiss of death. I had no such problem today. The weather was sunny and warm, I was caffeinated, well-fed and happy. People were swimming without wetsuits and I was reminded that, Toto, we're NOT in Chicago anymore. Or New York. Or Utah. I was reminded how much I love Southern California.
As for the waves. There were some of the fastest, strongest, waves I've ever felt. One knocked me so hard off my board I fell headfirst into an underwater somersault. When I emerged into the air I shouted exuberantly: "THAT WAS AWESOME!"
Today's lesson: even though I was having the "greatest time ever" I kept wanting to check my watch.
Today's theory: when I'm about to have a breakthrough in something and my identity is threatened - the identity that likes to prove how lame I am, how I can't do anything right, and that nothing I do ever pays off - I get obsessed with time. It's the perfect way to get out of the transcendent moment and into my head.
Today's breakthrough: I resisted checking my watch and kept re-committing to having fun, being with the waves and letting the ocean be my teacher.
Not a bad way to spend a Sunday morning.